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Degustaciones at Vineyard Murgo near Etna (15 euro) and Vineyard Planeta near Modica (12 euro), both worth a visit. Best sandwich ever at Bottega de Italia in Modica (try the chicken, sun dried tomatoes in spicy pink mayo).
Stayed in Hotel Etna near Etna (and Toarmina), U Marchisi near Scicly and Casa Talia overlooking Modica. All nice, especially Etna Hotel and Casa Talia.